A "Trulli" Wonderful Weekend

When you think of birthday celebrations, for adults that is, what comes to mind?

A get-together with friends? Food and beverages?  Perhaps a trip to a nearby town or city for some fun & frivolity?

Most birthday celebrations for friends that I've attended in the past have included all these elements.  A good time filled with fun and laughter with great memories made.  This was no different for a birthday celebration we had with a friend here, with one major exception: now trips may involve cheap airplane and/or train rides to another marvelous, intriguing place within Italy. It is exciting to think that birthdays can mean gallivanting around Europe. ;)

Therefore when SW invited me to attend her birthday celebration that would take a group of us girls south to Bari and the Puglia region, specifically Alberobello, to stay in a trullo how could I say no.

So Friday night, 10 excited ladies of Canadian, American and Australian decent descended upon the Aeroporto Cristoforo Colombo in Genova ready for a weekend adventure they'd never forget.  Scattered throughout the plane each one of us was tired yet anticipating seeing parts of Italy new to many of us.

Ready to venture out of Genova for the weekend.

(Photo credit: Sam W.)

Bari was our first stopover before we headed to our main destination of Alberobello (where the trullis were located).  We arrived in Bari LATE Friday night and quickly scurried up a narrow staircase to various apartments we'd be slumbering in.  The next morning, bags packed and stowed away, we headed out to wander the town.  A castle, a view of the sea with what the Australians related to lamingtons bordering the shore, a casual stroll through windy streets, a cautious warning from a stranger to keep our bags close, and a visit to a couple of churches one of which had a hidden, underground excavation site were all part of our experiences in Bari.  With some sightseeing under our belts, our bags were grabbed and we headed to the train station for our leg to Alberobello.

Castello Normanno-Svevo

Ruins

(Photo credit: Patty B.)

A film crew was here that day, perhaps

taping for a travel show.

Out and about on the streets of Bari.

Underground ruins.

Preserved art.

Church ruins, with stone graves.

Bari train station

Adventure Moment #1 - finding the correct train station.  Initially, armed with Google maps, we headed downtown to find the train station with promptness in our steps and a time crunch hanging over our heads.  We got to the main train station only to find out, after some confusion, that we had to go to the "other" train station and were guided with a general gesture leading out and to the right of the building.  How far right?  That was the question we may have neglected to confirm.  After a fast paced stroll, we ended up at another intersection and, after donning looks of confusion, had a kind gentleman ask us where we were trying to go.  During our conversation, he understood where we needed to go and also could tell we couldn't quite understand his directions - language in particular being a barrier.  Nonetheless, the kindness of the south prevailed and he didn't hesitate to drop his broom, explain to a co-worker what he was going to do and proceeded to guide us, literally, to where we needed to go.  "Grazie mille" was repeated among us when we finally got to our "other" train station (of which we'd never have found on our own).  Needless to say we missed the train we initially hoped to take, so with tickets for the next one we headed back into Bari's downtown district to grab some lunch.

The gentleman in the front is our new group leader ;)

We were VERY appreciative of his help.

Adventure Moment #2 - there was a poop incident.  Now, one might think that of course in Italy it means someone stepped in dog poop.  But nope!  Today it meant that one unlucky group member was positioned beneath a pigeon just at the "right" moment.  Perhaps the pigeon was lying in wait, or maybe it was all in timing.  Sadly for her, apparently this was the third time it had happened to her in the last few months.  Lucky or unlucky?  I think that's in the eye of the beholder (or pooped-uponer).

After lunch we made it to our train on time and had gotten settled into our 2 hr ride to Alberobello.  About 1/2 hr into the ride we noticed that one of the stops we had made along the way seemed to be quite extended.  Next thing we knew a conductor came through our carriage and announced....

Adventure Moment #3 - our train was broken.  Yep!  Stranded on the tracks, having to disembark and wait for another train to show up.  Thankfully it didn't take too long, and with careful group placement in line with elbows up we were able to get onto the next carriage with seats close for all.  It's definitely quite the task ensuring we could claim 10 seats together when an eager crowd for seats is breathing down your neck.

Train - DOT (dead on tracks)

When we arrived in Alberobello, literally the only ones getting off the train at that station and kinda questioning if this was really where we were supposed to be, we located our Trulli Holiday office and were efficiently led to our trullis.

These were the cutest things ever!  Trullis are traditional Apulian dry stone huts with cone-shaped roofs.  We were staying in 3 different trullis and each one had their own unique characteristics (ie. rooms on different levels, a bed in a loft of one).

My trullo

My trullo roomie :)

Old stone oven in one trulli's courtyard

A trullo loft 

(Photo credit: Patty B.)

After a brief unpack and viewing of each other's trullis, we headed out to explore the town before supper.

Alberobello

Trullo church

Trullis

 

Adventure Moment #4 - the birthday girl receiving the brunt end of an unhappy store owner/clerk called us "stupid girls".  Ah, customer service at its finest.  So during our wanderings, we headed down the hill to the "main" and touristy shopping areas, as well as to visit the trulli church.  On most streets store clerks/owners stood outside their shops trying to entice passers-by inside to indulge in their wares.  At one shop this wasn't the case and after a quick pop in then pop out, the gentleman working followed one of our friends out.  After candid banter about saying "buonasera" (he said it and loudly stated we should have said it back to be polite, of which WE HAD but apparently he didn't hear and of course was not going to seemingly let this go, to which it was stated to him it was said multiple times, and thus the conversation continued on in this manner until he decided to label us verbally as "stupid girls". *sigh*  Chivalry was definitely dead at this place lol.

The scene of "stupid girls"

At this point, after doing a bit of food and wine shopping, our group ventured back to our trullis to get ready for birthday supper.

It was recommended to go to La Cantina for supper and I don't think we were disappointed in heeding this advice.  Supper was grand - good food was devoured, beverages, laughter and  conversation were flowing and our birthday girl even had the opportunity to blow out a candle and make a wish.  Later we retired to the larger trulli of our group to partake in games, that had some very memorable moments and shenanigans - SW this means you ;)  We are definitely a group that tends to get a little competitive and ... shall we say, loud.

Happy Birthday SW!

After breakfast the next morning, we headed to the office to check out and find out the train schedule.  Unfortunately.....

Adventure Moment #5 - there are no trains from Alberobello back to Bari on Sundays. :s  Yikes!  Anxiety levels raised and problem solving skills kicked into high gear trying to figure out what to do now.  Initially it was decided that we'd take the bus - a ride which left at 4:30 arriving at the train station at 6:15 but we'd then need to take a 30 min bus to the airport all while trying to ensure we were ready to board our plane after going through security by 7:15.  While this seemed like the only option available at the time, and some high positive energy being exuded trying to believe that we'd be able to make it in time to the plane, we figured we wander around the town to busy ourselves for the day.

Trullo stone roof

Group photo outside the trullo museum

(Photo credit: group member)

(Photo credit: Patty B.)

(Photo credit: Patty B.)

Trulli street

(Photo credit: Patty B.)

It was quickly discovered, 30 minutes later, that the sightseeing was completed and we still had HOURS before we had to leave.  Nonetheless a group member had the idea of hiring a taxi to take us to Bari and low and behold, this plan prevailed.  So bunched into a taxi van for 100 euro we settled in for the hour trip to Bari.  This trip was actually kind of enjoyable as we got to see some more of the countryside we wouldn't have otherwise viewed had we'd been on a train.  In making a statement like that I feel like I've just channeled my father, lol.

(Photo credit: Stephanie W.)

After getting to the train station we found a place to have a LONG lunch that was filled with many interesting items (the seafood platter that came out at one point had all of us staring in silent wonderment for a few minutes).  Then with stress somewhat behind us we made it to the airport with time to spare, which meant naps, relaxation and an avid card game of Rook on the airport floor.  It's games like that that always remind me somewhat of playground games and being picked last or partnered up with someone who sighs upon hearing they're your partner haha (let's just say I'm not very good at Rook, and I can TOTALLY admit it lol).

It never fails to amaze me the adventure of going through security in an Italian airport.  If you leave any bit of space beside or in front of you, be sure that someone will find a way to weasel in.  We had quite the adventure in dealing with a man sneaking past others, only to have his passage botched by one firm group member, and a few other line budgers (some of whom perhaps had valid reasons as apparently they didn't anticipate the long lines and hence were in fear of missing their flights).

Needless to say, we all made it back to Genova and headed our separate ways home armed with many great memories and tiredness that would span the week.  Thanks SW for the invitation to participate in a lovely weekend in a part of Italy I wouldn't have otherwise known about or ventured to.  It will be a time I'll never forget. :)

Napoli - Simonsen Christmas Travels P4

Napoli.  Aka Naples.  The last leg of the Simonsen Christmas Travels.  Bittersweet in so many ways.  Excited to see more of Italy, but saddened as I knew our time together was coming to an end.  As I sit here writing what I know is the last entry in our Christmas travel adventures, the nostalgia of knowing that our time was coming to an end envelopes me once again.  And although this last adventure happened well over a month ago, the wounds are still fresh - knowing that once this part was over, I would be alone without them, an ocean separating us once again for far too long.

But before the sadness entwines itself in words, the epic adventures that brought us to southern Italy again will unravel before you.

We made it to the train station in Venice, with PLENTY of time to spare.  So there we were, in the cold, open air train station waiting for our departure time, anticipating the 5 hr train ride ahead of us.  At this point, my anxiety level was extremely high, emanating onto my travel companions.  Why?  At this point, aren't we experienced train travelers?  What's to worry about?  Well, we were going to Naples.  Naples.  Look it up.  No matter what search engine, website, travel page, etc. you use you will find yourself splattered with negative reviews/notes about the city.  How terrible it is from dirty to theft to cabbies taking advantage of you to pickpockets to gypsies, etc. etc. etc.  And of course, glass half empty me, my mind was going right to the negative, worst things that could happen.

I am pleased to say that I was sorely wrong.  I made a mountain range out of an ant hill.  Naples was just fine.  I actually LOVED the vibe from the city.  Does that mean what others said wasn't true?  I can't comment on whether or not it was, or if it was over-exaggerated.  Did we have a great time? Yes!  Do you have to be careful? Most definitely.  But it all comes down to common sense and being aware.  Not to say that those who had a terrible time / moment there didn't encompass these qualities.  Were there opportunities for us to run into some sort of discontent?  There were, but we knew about it.  The little girl who approached us while sitting at the train station in Naples, waiting to depart, to the group of guys hovering and moving solicitously around the crowds, to the cab drivers who don't want to use their meter.  It was there, all that I'd heard about.  But like any big city, you just have to be smart, savvy and stand your ground when need be.

This was one FAST train

Card games passed the time on long train rides.

Some great moments of the holiday :)

We arrived in Naples late evening so as soon as we disembarked from the train we headed straight to the taxi stand.  Nope, there weren't people trying to grab our luggage out of our hands on the way either.  Maybe it's due to the Simonsen walk with a purpose that we display ;)

Prepared this time to deal with the 5 people, lots of luggage, too much situation that always befell us with taxis, we were quite surprised when an over confident cabby, missing 3 of his fingers on one hand, told us it would be no problem.  Perhaps this confidence was what resulted in the missing appendages.  Either way, Whitney and I were a little skeptical as the vehicle wasn't that big but he kept ensuring us he could make things fit.  Needless to say, Whitney and I won - things didn't all fit.  However I ended up sitting in the front seat, cross legged with my suitcase at my feet so I don't think I really won that battle after all.

The drive started off a little rocky as the guy didn't know where the address of our rental accommodation was (I said Via Torquato Tasso but apparently that was wrong, I'm just supposed say Via Tasso, or so he informed me after).  After much debate with others via radio he figured it out and we arrived lickety split.  Thank goodness we had negotiated price before hand, and also having our Napoli landlord Luigi arrive at the door ensured there was no price shmoozing.  Pretty sure though that we had a decent cabbie.  It's all in the attitude of the passengers too I believe.

We were quite excited to climb into bed, exhausted, ready for the fab adventure that awaited us the next morning.

And who wouldn't be excited to sleep in a bed

with hot pink sheets :o lol

When we were thinking of going to Naples, my skepticism led us to not necessarily wanting to galavant around the city too much.  Plus, we wanted to take advantage of the amenities and sites nearby.  Thus, Christmas Eve day meant we were taking a private, guided tour of Pompei!

It was an early start to the day and waking up we noticed it was a little chilly in the apartment.  Well lo and behold, when we peeked outside we noticed that it had snowed. Yep!  The snow seemed to be following us no matter where we went.  Our tour guide, Marco, called to say that our ride would be late picking us up due to the lovely weather that befell the city.  Come to find out it hadn't snowed in Pompei/Naples since like 1974.  Just send Simonsens overseas and those Canadians will bring the winter wonderland with them lol.

Waiting on our ride.  Oblivious to the snowy/icy

situation that lay ahead of us.

Well, the late start was just the beginning of a 'fun' day.  The snow/rain meant that the highways were covered in ice.  Sheer ice.  Vehicles and drivers not used to this were driving at 30km/hr.  And had we been behind the wheel, as experienced winter drivers, none of us would have been going any faster either.  So what was supposed to be a straight shot, 20 min ride to Pompei ended up being a 2 hr, 3 different highway, diverted numerous times, could've walked faster, trip.  Had I known that at one point our driver, Enzo, had his rosary gripped tightly in hist hand, perhaps I'd have worried a little more.  Nonetheless, the patience radiated within the vehicle and warm, toasty, and armed with some sweets, we sat back and enjoyed not being the drivers today; not having to worry about public transportation; knowing we'd get there when we'd get there.

Fun times.  Just like back home ;/

Upon arriving at Pompei we found out that the snow had delayed opening the area.  Therefore, we hadn't missed anything as it had just opened minutes before we arrived.  I can thankfully say I enjoyed riding in a warm vehicle seeing a myriad of the country (we literally drove all the way around Mt Vesuvius to get to Pompei) as opposed to sitting in the vehicle in a parking lot.

Mt Vesuvius

Our tour guide Marco greeted us instantly upon arriving.  I knew right away that this was going to be a GREAT tour!  His enthusiasm, eagerness, and energy exuded brightly and we didn't waste any time getting our tickets and heading in to view the city that is still being unearthed today.

Going with a tour guide opened up so many more doors of information than had we visited Pompei alone. The stories and information Marco shared were amazing, from showing where to stand in one of the theaters to get the best sound (and having us sing aka make noise to hear how the acoustics mattered, to stories of prostitutes and sailors with phallic shapes on the ground guiding them to the red light district, to symbols in the brothels since language was a barrier but visuals were universal, to signatures in doorways of the brothel rooms to indicate who was good, to comparing sizes of homes and that men & women slept in separate rooms so they could accommodate their lovers (misogyny wasn't so important at that time apparently), etc. The amount of information he filled us in with was astounding and surreal. A part I found particularly interesting was how words we use today (ie odeon) came from that time period. And his catch phrase of the day "We (society today) invented nothing", meaning we've just copied/adapted/added to that which was or happened centuries ago.

Arena the gladiators practiced

Theater seating.  Below the railing was for the upper middle class

to lay down/lounge while watching.  Lower middle class just got to sit.

"Box seats" over the arch. For the more "well-to-do".

Sound marker in the music theater 

(there were different theaters for different strands of the arts)

Typical street

Stepping stones so as not to step in the street since

certain liquids would be thrown into them at times or

during heavy rains

Store

Intersection

An Italian snowball ;)

Political advertising

Every inch of the homes were painted, including the ceilings

White stones reflected light from the moon via the sky light

illuminating areas for the residents of the homes.

Nike, Roman God

 

Wall painting inside a middle class home

Oven.  Perhaps this was a bakery.

Sauna

Images in the brothel.  Escape language barriers by pointing at what you wanted.

And where the events took place. The beds were REALLY small.

Mom and Whitney getting some good luck in ;)

Remains of a two-story piazza.  The building was shaped like a square

with a large open courtyard in the middle

Remnants of an old church

Happy New Year from Pompei, Italy.

With our tour guide Marco. Best guide ever! "My family"

After our tour Enzo, our driver, took us to Sorrento for lunch. We were originally scheduled to go to My Vesuvius but due to the snow we were unable to do so. :( Needless to say we had a lovely lunch in Sorrento and a less icy drive back.

Tired, and a little sore, we relaxed as we planned our next move. It was New Years and Mom had read that Naples has the best fireworks show in the country. Well who wouldn't want to see / experience that. So bundled up we decided to head downtown to Piazza Plebiscito for the outdoor concert there, at the edge of the port. This was amazing!! Live outdoor music theatre, food and beverage vendors everywhere, and Italy being Italy (oh how wonderful you are at times) men selling their vino e birra wares in tubs for a very reasonable price ;) Food first then beverages after we scoped out a place out of the wind (it was pretty windy and chilly to start the night), and enjoyed watching the concert and listening to music in a foreign language, lyrics indistinguishable but music understandable. And that is where 2015 was greeted - amid love, laughter, memories, a whole lot of vino being enjoyed outdoors in a public space and with the BEST people in the world. I knew at that moment that I didn't want to be anywhere else but there.

After an adventurous trek home, trying to catch a cab meant we had three areas staked out so we could flag one down, we headed to bed for our first sleep in 2015 to enjoy another trip lined up for "later" that day.

The most amazing fireworks were seen around the bay here.

Ready for a night of festivities

It was a bit chilly and I wanted to sit so we teamed up:

I sat on Whitney's feet to warm them lol :)

Trying group selfies from new angles.

We were getting pretty good with this selfie business by

the end of the trip.  And we didn't even need a stick ;)

Concert at Piazza Plebiscito

January 1st 2015 - Woke up to the sun shining and clear skies which was going to end up being perfect weather for our drive along the Amalfi coast.  This was another day trip we had booked where we had a private driver taking just our family along the Amalfi coast with a few stops in between.  Our driver, Tony (aka Antonini), was absolutely fabulous.  His knowledge of the area was vast, and his enthusiastic, humorous personality made the trip unforgettable with his stories and banter.  He totally fit right in as one of the family.  First we drove from Naples to Sorrento where we stopped to wander the town and grab a donut & coffee.  Along the way we learned that Sorrento is lemon country, home of the best lemoncello (according to Tony that is).  We also found out that lemon trees should be covered with a net so that they don't receive too much sun, just enough to make them yellow.

The infamous Bikini Beach. Great story behind this place.

Sorrento

Then we headed to Positano along the narrow, winding mountain roads with an amazing view of the coast just outside our window.  It was spectacular!!  As we drove we found that the road continued to narrow until a point where tour buses could go no further, and their passengers had to continue on to Positano on foot.  Thank goodness we were in a deluxe van (although I did have my doubts that we'd fit, but Tony said to trust him and we made it lol).  In Positano we walked down to the beach where music was playing and dancers were performing.  We strolled along the rocky/sandy beach and dipped our hands in Meditteranean.  Actually Dad and I tried to dip our hands but we misjudged the tide and really dipped our feet and ankles. Oh my.

Positano

Dancers and musicians

 

Group selfie ;)

After a pizza dinner coupled with wine spritzers we continued along the coast heading to Amalfi.  It was obvious that Tony was proud of his home area as he regaled us with stories steeped with traditions (i.e. sailors visiting a church before setting sail to pray for a safe journey, an Easter walk wearing black then white during two different times of it).  I thought it was very interesting to learn that you shouldn't pick olives from the olive trees.  Instead, many places have nets under them that when it's time they'll extend them to catch the olives falling from the trees.

After we stopped and perused Amalfi, we headed back to Naples through the Milky Mountains.  Here is where we learned that mozzarella cheese is best stored in liquid, which is why I see it in the stores here in bags of water.  Apparently the mozzarella cheese that comes from the Milky Mountains is the best kind ever, but I can't remember why lol.  I was at information overload at this point.

Nativity scenes were viewed along the drive in many places

Amalfi

As the bay of Naples, with its open arms welcoming us back, came into view that bittersweet feeling enveloped me again.  Tomorrow we'd be heading back to Rome for one more night of conversation, games and time together before flying out on our separate ways: 4 heading west, back to the land of cold and snow, and 1 heading north, alone but with a heart and mind full of memories, firsts and stories never to be forgotten.

Last evening together in Rome

Thank you again Mom, Dad, Tyler and Whitney for taking the time to visit and travel with me.  It was the most memorable adventure I've had with you yet.  I can't wait for the next one! :)


Naples Links:

Rental Accomodation
http://www.tripadvisor.ca/VacationRentalReview-g187785-d5535557-SUITE_1912_WI_FI-Naples_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html

Tours of Naples (Pompei trip)
http://www.tripadvisor.ca/Attraction_Review-g187785-d2408784-Reviews-Tours_of_Naples-Naples_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html

Aldo Limos (Almafi coast trip)
http://www.aldolimos.com/