A get-together with friends? Food and beverages? Perhaps a trip to a nearby town or city for some fun & frivolity?
Most birthday celebrations for friends that I've attended in the past have included all these elements. A good time filled with fun and laughter with great memories made. This was no different for a birthday celebration we had with a friend here, with one major exception: now trips may involve cheap airplane and/or train rides to another marvelous, intriguing place within Italy. It is exciting to think that birthdays can mean gallivanting around Europe. ;)
Therefore when SW invited me to attend her birthday celebration that would take a group of us girls south to Bari and the Puglia region, specifically Alberobello, to stay in a trullo how could I say no.
So Friday night, 10 excited ladies of Canadian, American and Australian decent descended upon the Aeroporto Cristoforo Colombo in Genova ready for a weekend adventure they'd never forget. Scattered throughout the plane each one of us was tired yet anticipating seeing parts of Italy new to many of us.
Ready to venture out of Genova for the weekend.
(Photo credit: Sam W.)
Bari was our first stopover before we headed to our main destination of Alberobello (where the trullis were located). We arrived in Bari LATE Friday night and quickly scurried up a narrow staircase to various apartments we'd be slumbering in. The next morning, bags packed and stowed away, we headed out to wander the town. A castle, a view of the sea with what the Australians related to lamingtons bordering the shore, a casual stroll through windy streets, a cautious warning from a stranger to keep our bags close, and a visit to a couple of churches one of which had a hidden, underground excavation site were all part of our experiences in Bari. With some sightseeing under our belts, our bags were grabbed and we headed to the train station for our leg to Alberobello.
Castello Normanno-Svevo
Ruins
(Photo credit: Patty B.)
A film crew was here that day, perhaps
taping for a travel show.
Out and about on the streets of Bari.
Underground ruins.
Preserved art.
Church ruins, with stone graves.
Bari train station
Adventure Moment #1 - finding the correct train station. Initially, armed with Google maps, we headed downtown to find the train station with promptness in our steps and a time crunch hanging over our heads. We got to the main train station only to find out, after some confusion, that we had to go to the "other" train station and were guided with a general gesture leading out and to the right of the building. How far right? That was the question we may have neglected to confirm. After a fast paced stroll, we ended up at another intersection and, after donning looks of confusion, had a kind gentleman ask us where we were trying to go. During our conversation, he understood where we needed to go and also could tell we couldn't quite understand his directions - language in particular being a barrier. Nonetheless, the kindness of the south prevailed and he didn't hesitate to drop his broom, explain to a co-worker what he was going to do and proceeded to guide us, literally, to where we needed to go. "Grazie mille" was repeated among us when we finally got to our "other" train station (of which we'd never have found on our own). Needless to say we missed the train we initially hoped to take, so with tickets for the next one we headed back into Bari's downtown district to grab some lunch.
The gentleman in the front is our new group leader ;)
We were VERY appreciative of his help.
Adventure Moment #2 - there was a poop incident. Now, one might think that of course in Italy it means someone stepped in dog poop. But nope! Today it meant that one unlucky group member was positioned beneath a pigeon just at the "right" moment. Perhaps the pigeon was lying in wait, or maybe it was all in timing. Sadly for her, apparently this was the third time it had happened to her in the last few months. Lucky or unlucky? I think that's in the eye of the beholder (or pooped-uponer).
After lunch we made it to our train on time and had gotten settled into our 2 hr ride to Alberobello. About 1/2 hr into the ride we noticed that one of the stops we had made along the way seemed to be quite extended. Next thing we knew a conductor came through our carriage and announced....
Adventure Moment #3 - our train was broken. Yep! Stranded on the tracks, having to disembark and wait for another train to show up. Thankfully it didn't take too long, and with careful group placement in line with elbows up we were able to get onto the next carriage with seats close for all. It's definitely quite the task ensuring we could claim 10 seats together when an eager crowd for seats is breathing down your neck.
Train - DOT (dead on tracks)
When we arrived in Alberobello, literally the only ones getting off the train at that station and kinda questioning if this was really where we were supposed to be, we located our Trulli Holiday office and were efficiently led to our trullis.
These were the cutest things ever! Trullis are traditional Apulian dry stone huts with cone-shaped roofs. We were staying in 3 different trullis and each one had their own unique characteristics (ie. rooms on different levels, a bed in a loft of one).
My trullo
My trullo roomie :)
Old stone oven in one trulli's courtyard
A trullo loft
(Photo credit: Patty B.)
After a brief unpack and viewing of each other's trullis, we headed out to explore the town before supper.
Alberobello
Trullo church
Trullis
Adventure Moment #4 - the birthday girl receiving the brunt end of an unhappy store owner/clerk called us "stupid girls". Ah, customer service at its finest. So during our wanderings, we headed down the hill to the "main" and touristy shopping areas, as well as to visit the trulli church. On most streets store clerks/owners stood outside their shops trying to entice passers-by inside to indulge in their wares. At one shop this wasn't the case and after a quick pop in then pop out, the gentleman working followed one of our friends out. After candid banter about saying "buonasera" (he said it and loudly stated we should have said it back to be polite, of which WE HAD but apparently he didn't hear and of course was not going to seemingly let this go, to which it was stated to him it was said multiple times, and thus the conversation continued on in this manner until he decided to label us verbally as "stupid girls". *sigh* Chivalry was definitely dead at this place lol.
The scene of "stupid girls"
At this point, after doing a bit of food and wine shopping, our group ventured back to our trullis to get ready for birthday supper.
It was recommended to go to La Cantina for supper and I don't think we were disappointed in heeding this advice. Supper was grand - good food was devoured, beverages, laughter and conversation were flowing and our birthday girl even had the opportunity to blow out a candle and make a wish. Later we retired to the larger trulli of our group to partake in games, that had some very memorable moments and shenanigans - SW this means you ;) We are definitely a group that tends to get a little competitive and ... shall we say, loud.
Happy Birthday SW!
After breakfast the next morning, we headed to the office to check out and find out the train schedule. Unfortunately.....
Adventure Moment #5 - there are no trains from Alberobello back to Bari on Sundays. :s Yikes! Anxiety levels raised and problem solving skills kicked into high gear trying to figure out what to do now. Initially it was decided that we'd take the bus - a ride which left at 4:30 arriving at the train station at 6:15 but we'd then need to take a 30 min bus to the airport all while trying to ensure we were ready to board our plane after going through security by 7:15. While this seemed like the only option available at the time, and some high positive energy being exuded trying to believe that we'd be able to make it in time to the plane, we figured we wander around the town to busy ourselves for the day.
Trullo stone roof
Group photo outside the trullo museum
(Photo credit: group member)
(Photo credit: Patty B.)
(Photo credit: Patty B.)
Trulli street
(Photo credit: Patty B.)
It was quickly discovered, 30 minutes later, that the sightseeing was completed and we still had HOURS before we had to leave. Nonetheless a group member had the idea of hiring a taxi to take us to Bari and low and behold, this plan prevailed. So bunched into a taxi van for 100 euro we settled in for the hour trip to Bari. This trip was actually kind of enjoyable as we got to see some more of the countryside we wouldn't have otherwise viewed had we'd been on a train. In making a statement like that I feel like I've just channeled my father, lol.
(Photo credit: Stephanie W.)
After getting to the train station we found a place to have a LONG lunch that was filled with many interesting items (the seafood platter that came out at one point had all of us staring in silent wonderment for a few minutes). Then with stress somewhat behind us we made it to the airport with time to spare, which meant naps, relaxation and an avid card game of Rook on the airport floor. It's games like that that always remind me somewhat of playground games and being picked last or partnered up with someone who sighs upon hearing they're your partner haha (let's just say I'm not very good at Rook, and I can TOTALLY admit it lol).
It never fails to amaze me the adventure of going through security in an Italian airport. If you leave any bit of space beside or in front of you, be sure that someone will find a way to weasel in. We had quite the adventure in dealing with a man sneaking past others, only to have his passage botched by one firm group member, and a few other line budgers (some of whom perhaps had valid reasons as apparently they didn't anticipate the long lines and hence were in fear of missing their flights).
Needless to say, we all made it back to Genova and headed our separate ways home armed with many great memories and tiredness that would span the week. Thanks SW for the invitation to participate in a lovely weekend in a part of Italy I wouldn't have otherwise known about or ventured to. It will be a time I'll never forget. :)
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